Need-to-know tips for new players

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This topic contains 7 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by  Raijinili 6 years, 3 months ago.

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  • #12625

    Raijinili

    == Deck-building ==

    – If you are having trouble drawing the cards you need, look through your units and think about which ones are worth the slot. Keep your deck thin (around 16-22 cards, depending on the deck type). The fewer cards you have in your deck, the more likely you are to draw what you need, and faster.
    – First Card rule: The very first card you draw in a game will be a random unit you can afford on the first turn. For the starting city, this means a card costing at most 2 gold.
    – The First Card rule means that you should be extra-careful about what 1g and 2g cards you allow in your deck. You usually want to draw Johnn or Harden first turn, so you can build up your economy. Typical first-turn cards are Groff, Willem, Pitt, Rosie, Harum, Ramm, Tarim, Kaite. Think about whether these cards help your deck enough to reduce your chances of getting Johnn and Harden.
    – Cards that you almost definitely don’t want in your Gold deck: Bin, Lare, Jade, Hagel, and to a lesser extent, Hiro, Lyon, Pitt, Harum, and Groff (1 Attack). These cards are balanced for certain deck types and are underpowered in a starter Gold deck.

    Checklist:
    – Do I have enough cheap Gold-producing units?
    – Do too many of my cards cost more than 4 Gold? (4 Gold is typically affordable by turn 2.)
    – Do I have enough healing? (A regular newbie deck should probably have two healers: one cheap and one with big healing.)
    – What are my 1 Gold and 2 Gold cards? Will I have a good chance of getting Harden or Johnn on my first turn?
    – What is my maximum attack power? (Fights between new players often end up going to the one with higher total power.)

    == Specific ability tips ==

    Wound:
    – When a unit is wounded by the enemy across, that unit will get its action but be unable to act in future turns until healed.
    – When an enemy unit has 2 Wound or higher, its Wounds will apply first to the unit across (even if it’s already wounded), and any leftover wound is applied downward.
    – When a unit is wounded by an enemy above it, it will not get its action. This is very powerful.
    – Wound is blocked by Defense, just like Attack. Example: An enemy unit has 3 Wound, and your unit has 1 Def. Your unit will block 1 Wound, get wounded by 1 Wound, and the last Wound is applied to your next unit.

    Healing:
    – Heal priority: back row from top to bottom, then front row from top to bottom. This means if you have a specific unit you really want to get the Heal, put it in the back row, top.
    – If a wounded unit in the back is Healed before its turn (i.e. Healer is above the wounded unit), it will get its effect that round.
    – If a Healer is wounded during its turn, it will still activate its Heal (like any other effect), but it will ignore itself as a Heal target.
    – If a Healer is wounded during its turn, and another unit is wounded by the same action, that unit is a valid Heal target (as long as no other wounded unit has higher priority). This means that two Healers next to each other can keep each other Healed.

    == Specific card tips ==

    (Tips for cards commonly used by free players.)

    Arthur:
    – Arthur’s Front effect is Honor, not Attack, so you typically want him near the top, so that he doesn’t face empty space (making his Honor worthless).
    – Arthur generates up to 13 advantage (12 Honor + 1 Def) when in Front, and his King ability generates 4 advantage (4 Attack) per unwounded Knight when in Back. If you only have two Knights fighting, you want Arthur in front, but if you have four, you probably want him in back.
    – When in front, Arthur is weak to losing his Honor (for that turn), and getting Wounded by powerful Wounders.
    – When in back, Arthur has no defense, and is vulnerable to an arrow from Durant. However, he generates Attack advantage while not taking up a slot in front.
    – Arthur can generate Attack in the back, which is useful against Bolt decks (see the “Specific counter-strategies” section below).

    Durant:
    – Front: Arrow Healers before they get their turn. If there are two Healers, aim for the top one (if the top one can Heal the bottom one), and you will reduce the enemy’s Heal that turn by at least 2 (the Healer’s Heal value and
    – Back: Two recruit and a gold is very good early on. If, on turn 2, you have a choice between getting Johnn/Harden and getting Durant, maybe choose Durant.

    Domino:
    – If you aren’t sure that you can overpower your opponent, wound a few of their strong units to reduce their power. (This doesn’t work if they have more Healing than you have Wounding.)

    Grom:
    – Tip: When in Front, Grom wants to be across from a unit with at least 3 attack, so that all of Grom’s defense is of use. (If you’re fighting Grom and you want to reduce its advantage, put your non-attacking unit in front of it.)

    Rucke (not in starter, but it’s common):
    – Rucke’s Front ability is Rampage, which is like Attack, except that Rucke doubles its attack (including bonuses from things like Squire) if it is not across from an Front enemy unit.
    – Tip: If you have a Rampage unit and an Attack unit in front at the same time, you should usually put the Rampage unit below the Attack unit, to increase your chances of getting a Rampage.

    == Specific counter-strategies ==

    Spike/Rune (Gold):
    – Problem: 4 Wound can disable your attackers before they can generate Attack, leaving you vulnerable.
    – Cards to have: Harden x2, Grom, Morgart, maybe Gernt. Cliff if you have it. Cards with 2 and 3 defense. Remember that Wound is blocked by Defense.
    – More cards to have: Healing units, like Jolien, Epherius, Evelyne, or Rosie. If you can block enough Wound and heal the rest, you might have a chance. Jolien and one other is probably enough.
    – Try to figure out where your opponent will place Spike, and put a Harden right beneath that spot so that Harden gets wounded instead of three of your other units. If you put 3 def, like Grom or Morgart, below Spike, they wouldn’t even be wounded. Rune won’t be able to break a Harden below it.
    – The top-most slot can’t be denied its action. You should probably put your highest attacker there.

    Bolt (Crystal ability):
    – X Bolt generates X attack per enemy unit in the front, and ignores defense. For example, your opponent has a 2 Bolt unit and you have 5 units in front. Your opponent’s 2 Bolt unit will generate 2*5=10 attack.
    – If your opponent has (or will have) multiple Bolters out, you have to consider your front row carefully. For example, if your opponent has a 1 Bolt, a 2 Bolt, and a 2 Bolt, for a total of 5 Bolt, each unit you have in front will cause 5 attack against yourself. Therefore, each unit you put in front MUST have at least 6 attack to be worth it.

    Burnout Revenge deck (Crystal):
    – This is when you see Sliver and/or Shadebeast, along with Striker, in your opponent’s field.
    –> Striker (common) has 1Bolt, but wounds itself if it generates 5 or more Attack (5Burnout). This means it burns out if its opponent has at least 5 units on the field.
    –> Sliver (rare) has 5Revenge, which generates 5 Attack per wounded unit in its owner’s front. It has 6Burnout (basically burns out if there are two Wounded units).
    –> Shadebeast (rare) has DeathBolt (a combination of Revenge and Bolt), which generates 1 Bolt per wounded unit in its owner’s front. It has 14Burnout.
    –> Revenge counts units who burned out before the Revenger’s turn.
    –> Example: If you put Striker/Striker/Sliver/Sliver/Shadebeast/Shadebeast and your opponent puts out 7 units, your Strikers will generate 2Bolt and wound themselves, the Slivers will see the wounded Strikers and generate 25 Attack (second Sliver sees the first one is wounded) and wound themselves, and the two Shadebeasts will see four/five wounded units and generate 9 more Bolt, for a total of 25 Attack plus 77 Attack (7 enemies + 11 Bolt). Very dangerous.
    – To counter the above setup, you just need to keep from triggering Striker’s Burnout by having only four (preferably strong) units in front. If the Strikers don’t burn out, the Slivers and Shadebeasts won’t generate any Attack.
    – Of course, think carefully before you Wound a unit in a deck that might have Revenge/DeathBolt.
    – There is another flavor of Burnout, using Forest and Crystal cards together, which doesn’t rely on Bolt to burn out. You’ll probably lose.

    == Miscellaneous ==

    Getting cards:
    1. Buy them with gems.
    2. Get to rank 50.

    Getting gems:
    – You get 1 gem for every rank.
    – Exception: You get 5 gems for reaching a multiple of 5 (5, 10, 15, 20, …).
    – Exception: You get 5 gems for reaching rank 1.
    – Exception: You get 20 gems for reaching r30.
    – Exception: You get a card for reaching r50. From what the players know, there is a 50% chance of it being uncommon, a 50% chance of rare, and a 0% chance of ultra rare.
    – Max rank is 50, which is about 650k points.
    – Ranks reset every week on Wednesday, 5PM Pacific time.

    Getting points/rank:
    – You gain 4000 points per win against a Ghost.
    – You gain 800 points per loss against a human. You gain no points for forfeit. (Forfeit still gives your opponent points for winning.)
    – You gain at least 2000 points per win against a human, depending on the opponent.
    – The point value of a win against a human opponent is 2000 to 20,000. My understanding: the value depends on the opponent’s highest weekly rank ever, and the number of times you’ve beaten that opponent “recently” for some definition of “recently”.

    Shameless advertising (for other people):
    – View all cards here: https://spryfox.com/forums/topic/highgrounds-units-page/
    – Come to the (unofficial) chat room to talk about strategy and tips. (https://spryfox.com/forums/topic/unofficial-hg-chat/)

    #12638

    aiee6

    – There is another flavor of Burnout, using Forest and Crystal cards together, which doesn’t rely on Bolt to burn out. You’ll probably lose.
    :)

    #12674

    Eskay

    Excellent! Finish the entry on Durant’s front-row and this’ll be a definitive article.

    #12682

    ghoti

    This is great! Thanks for posting.

    Defense may be important enough to merit a section under “specific ability” instead of being under Grom and Dealing with Spike. Also, maybe a note on how Squires work – doesn’t everyone get a Willem?

    #12684

    Raijinili

    The Crystal Camp .Com’s wiki is back up, so I’m going to move over to there soonish.

    Defense blocks attack and wound. Is there any other mechanic that I should explain?

    Maybe front arrow and back arrow.

    Willem isn’t a starter, but it’s common.

    #12693

    Pyeontae

    Excellent article !
    This is a must read for new players and even others.

    #12715

    Raijinili

    ==Buying cards==

    Basic thoughts:
    * Five Value packs (100g each) cost the same 2 Power packs (250g each), but keep in mind what you’re paying for. When you buy a pack, you’re not just paying for cards, but the GUARANTEE that the cards are a certain way. In other words, you pay a premium to guarantee a rare in a Power Pack.
    * Buy Value Packs instead of Power Packs: Rares are nice (really nice) but five Value packs give you 20 commons and 10 uncommons (with a chance of rare), and two Power Packs get you 6 commons, 4 uncommons, and 2 Rares. Getting the Power packs means you trade 14 commons and 6 uncommons for two rares, or 7 commons and 3 uncommons per rare. 7 commons and 3 uncommons are pretty great. They could be Cliff, Spike, second Durant, Bran… Point is, your deck will be better for it.
    * If you plan to stay a free player for the time being, your best bet (best value for cards you can use) is the gold Starter pack (600 gems). If you’re going to pay cash for a lot of packs at once, go nuts on the regular boosters. Crystal and Wood are fun.
    * Buy Value Packs over Gold Starters: However, if you don’t buy cards near-weekly, then your deck won’t improve, and you won’t get points as quickly anyway. Plus, half the fun in this kind of game is the excitement of getting new cards. So you should probably just buy value packs.

    Also, don’t touch crafting. Crafting is much better for people who have lots of cards and need to get just a few more. If you don’t have a half-full collection, the card you craft today may come up in a booster pack tomorrow.

    #12889

    Raijinili
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